Biedermeier / 30's dining room table progress

o Patrick did veneer the column.
He first put the veneer on an kraft paper to hold the fiber ni place, we were not sure this thick veneer will like the bending. The article can be found there http://www.oldbrownglue.com/articles.html

What you see here is were the seem was made, on the overlap, using a veneer saw then using the reversibility of the glue with an iron to finish the glueing.

It cleans easily enough with water

I have been careful enough to mark where the ring inset was to find it easily and cut it with a japanese saw

I have also introduce a router to the workshop to do the rabid on those curve, I did not feel like making them by hand on this modern table. But if it had been a period reproduction I will have done it by hand.

Right now I put this project aside

because I have to prep and re-skin that huge table with parchment, I will make a post of it. But I will finish it soon.

-- Patrice lejeune

- See more at: http://lumberjocks.com/Patricelejeune/blog/41205#sthash.HYyXQgL2.dpuf

Treasure Box #2 - Post #9 - Sand Shading

I has been a while and I thought I could give an update on this project.

We are preparing the class room for june, which means cleaning the space we use between the classes as our marquetry and french polish workshop.

I am finishing shading before to put the project on the side for those reason.

I use the sand shading method and mostly dipping considering the number of pieces.

I usually do one or 2 flowers at a time and dip a series of 2 or 3 pieces, sometime 4 which gives me an average of 8 to 16 pieces at all time in the sand. The burning can go real fast on some wood so I prioritize them by there speeds and try to keep the same type of wood in the sand to get a certain rhythm like put it in 1 2 3 4 flip a other one 1 2 3 4 take of the last one 1 2 3 4, put in a new one if I have time 1 2 3 4 flip the first one 1 2 3 4 take of the second 1 2 3 4 etc…

I place them on my paper in order so I can put them back easily in eclate when I am done shading a group. this gives ime for the sand to get real hot again by putting the lid back on.

When I am done doing a side of the tray I put it on the other side of the skillet for a better access to the pieces to shade

So up to today I have done all the box’s sides

and a good part of the top

And as usual couple close up just because I like them

-- Patrice lejeune

Biedermeier/30's Dining Room Table #1: - Shaping and veneering

We have been hired to make a dining room table from a 30’s model and slide it on the Biedermeier side.

This is not our usual traditional furniture making but it is also a nice change in the usual styles we work on.

We started with a simple design to show the overall idea

Brick laid apron in pine for a light top

Poplar “plaque to glue under the top. it will host a metal plate to bolt the lower part to the top

The base is made out of beech, for an heavy base. And like usual we work only with hide glue or the Liquid Hide Glue Old Brown Glue.

A little look at the general aspect. The columns are turned in soft maple. I have already done my mahogany sunburst for the base at that point

Final shaping of the base

We always tooth our surfaces when we veneer to maximize the adherence of the glue

I stupidly did not take a picture of the actual glueing of the edges but I used one of those movers belts.

Toothing the faces before glueing

Up to today I have the straight aprons for the leaves and all the base surfaces veneered.

Patrick is going to veneer columns using his techniques described in his article “Master Class: Low-tech method for veneer columns” you can find here http://www.oldbrownglue.com/articles.html

Thank you for following and see you in the next episode.

-- Patrice lejeune